Chateau Camou: Baja’s Bordeaux Wines

By Steve Dryden

Bordeaux, France is a wine region famous for producing superior “world class” white and red wines. These wines are made from Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Today, eighty-four percent of Bordeaux wine is red and fourteen percent is white. Up until 1970 Bordeaux regularly produced more white wine than red! In France, the red wines are often called “claret,” an English word referring to dry red wines from Bordeaux. And, as Samuel Johnson once said, “He who aspires to be a serious wine drinker must drink Claret.” When I talk about Baja’s Bordeaux wines I really mean; Mexican wines made in the classic French-style of Bordeaux using similar grape varieties grown in Guadalupe Valley, Baja California.

According to French law, a chateau is a house attached to a vineyard having a specific number of acres, as well as having winemaking and storage facilities on the property. A wine may not be called a chateau unless it meets these criteria. The terms “domaine,” “clos,” and “cru” are also used. Mexico’s Chateau Camou winery is based on similar guidelines with the goal of producing classic Bordeaux-style white and red wines from grapes grown in the wine region north-east of Ensenada. The winery produces wines from a location hidden in a remote canyon named Canada de Trigo/Canyon of Wheat.

Chateau Camou gets its winemaking philosophy and passion from Bordeaux, France. The winemaker, Dr. Victor Torres, holds a Ph.D. in Oenology from the University of Bordeaux and gained experience working at Chateau Margaux, one of France’s first growth-premier crus (The Medoc) from the original 1855 classification of great wines, In addition, the vineyards are based on the French model of 5,000 plants per hectare for reds and 4.500 for whites allowing for the harvest of high quality, deeply concentrated fruit. The average age of the vines are thirty years with some vines as old as seventy-five years. Varieties grown are Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Zinfandel. The climate in the canyon is suitable for growing premium Bordeaux grapes and other varieties.

This winery makes wine with artistic creativity producing superior examples of French style wine grown and blended on Mexican terroir. El Gran Vino Tinto is a blend of sixty-four percent Cabernet Sauvignon, twenty-one percent Cabernet Franc and fifteen percent Merlot. It is a world class Bordeaux-style red, aged in new oak barrels for up to twenty-four months, intense flavors of cassis and fresh berries, complex notes of chocolate and coffee with a long sophisticated finish. A very good wine retailing for about $32.

El Gran Vino Blanco is a wonderful Bordeaux-style blend of white wine, ninety percent Sauvignon Blanc with a touch of Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc. Aged in eighty percent new French oak barrels, 100 percent barrel fermented showing complex varietal aromas of tropical fruits with soft notes of anise and minerals on the finish. Retails for about $15.

El Gran Divino is a seductive and elegant dessert wine in the Sauternes-style of Bordeaux. Harvested late in the growing season to allow for superb sweetness and then aged in small French barrels oak for two years. It provides a sensual peach, apricot, and anise flavor creating an incredible after dinner treat. Retails for about $32.

El Gran Vino Tinto de Zinfandel is 100 percent varietal, displaying very ripe sweet plum and berry flavors with a clean, rich finish making for a wonderful after dinner drink. This Zinfandel is one of the prime examples of good Mexican wine. Retails for about $32.

Chateau Camou makes a wonderful 100 percent Vina de Camou Chardonnay, aged in new French oak for nine months, golden straw color, aromas of peach, mango, butter, honey, vanilla and toast. A very nice wine that retails for about $13. They also make a very nice and delicious white wine, Vina de Camou Fume Blanc. Retails for about $13.

Chateau Camou offers small amounts of younger, fresh drinking wines under their “Flor de Guadalupe” label. These include a flavorful Loire-style Chenin Blanc blend called “Blanc de Blanc.” It is a mix of sixty percent Chenin Blanc, twenty-five percent Sauvignon Blanc and fifteen percent Chardonnay. Golden in color with rich floral and intense honey and apricot aromas, well balanced acidity, mild hint of oak and a lingering fruity finish. A very nice white table wine with an affordable price of about $8.

Flor de Guadalupe Zinfandel is a zippy and delicious blend of seventy percent Zinfandel, fifteen percent Cabernet Sauvignon and fifteen percent Cabernet Franc. Aged in French oak for about ten months, bright red-purple color, fresh raspberry and cherry aromas, well balanced with soft tannins and crisp acidity. A good value for about $8.

Winery owners Fernando Favela and Dr. Victor Torres have teamed up with the intention of creating superior Bordeaux-style wines in Baja California. Their tasting room is open from 8 a.m - 2 p.m weekdays and Saturdays. The winery is located near the village of Francisco Zarco. Enter Francisco Zarco off of the Ensenada-Tecate Highway 3 and head south thru town on the only paved road for about a mile until it turns into a dirt road. Follow the dirt road, merge right at the fork and proceed another two miles (you’ll pass Vinicola Suenos and Monte Xanic wineries turn right at the Chateau Camou sign and go another two miles to the winery. For information, appointments or directions call U.S. at 1-877-695-6695 or 646-171-9300 MX or www.chateau-camou.com.mx.