Vina de Liceaga: Mexico’s Magnificent Merlot

By Steve Dryden

Vina de Liceaga Winery produces an exceptional merlot which received a silver medal in 2002 at the San Francisco International Wine Competition and numerous gold medals in Mexican wine competitions. Winemaker Enrique Ferro has refined the art of making superior wines with merlot, cabernet franc, and grenache. Merlot and cabernet franc are major grapes of Bordeaux, France, but Mexico has a few surprises for the most sophisticated wine lovers and this winery provides several of them!

Eduardo and Myrna Liceaga Campos own prime vineyards and a winery in San Antonio de las Minas in Mexico’s premier wine growing region of Guadalupe Valley northeast of Ensenada. In 1983 they planted about 10,000 table grapevines and in 1991 slowly began to graft over to the wine varieties of merlot and cabernet franc. The vineyard, composed of 70 per cent merlot and 30 percent cabernet franc, is located in a cooler area of Guadalupe Valley that allows for a later harvest and more hang time, giving the grapes excellent flavor and ripeness.

Eduardo has a deep appreciation and passion for red wines and has selected renowned enologist Dr. Enrique Ferro to create their wonderful wines. Dr. Ferro comes from a historical Mexican-Italian winemaking family that goes back to the early days of Baja’s oldest winery. In 1931 his father, Esteban Ferro, managed and made quality wines for the Santo Tomas Winery in Ensenada. Eduardo and Enrique have teamed up with the intent to create some of the best wines in Mexico. Mr. Liceaga’s marketing genius and knowledge of wines is guiding their future.

One of the new trends in winemaking is to produce young red wines that are ready to drink soon after bottling. Liceaga has the perfect grapes for producing these and has established vines that that provide the ingredients for sensational wines. Castillo de las Minas 2004 is a blend of seventy percent Grenache, twenty-five percent merlot and five percent cabernet franc. This wine is a perfect match with carne asada, lamb, grilled chicken and pizza and is a great value at $15 per bottle! Their sole white wine is a nice 2001 Chenin Blanc for the bargain price of $10.

Merlot Gran Reserva is their most popular wine, made with ninety percent merlot and ten percent cabernet franc, aged in new French oak for about twenty-four months, and is bottled aged for twelve months. The final result is a beautiful rich red color, aromas of ripe berry fruits, prunes, slight floral, mild hint of vanilla/oak, well balanced and soft tannins. This outstanding merlot is a fine example of why the Mexican wine industry is gaining international status and recognition, especially now because of major problems and decline of France’s wine industry. Liceaga’s timing and vision is ideal and his merlot is an excellent wine for $25.

Vina de Liceaga produces another wonderful Merlot 2001. It’s a very popular blend of ninety percent merlot and ten percent cabernet franc. aged in new American oak for two years. The cost is $25.

Eduardo Liceaga following the tradition of his quality wines is using the most modern techniques creating two unique grape based beverages called Grapa. It’s is a traditional Italian distilled product made from the skins of the grapes and his are labeled Aqua de Vid de Moscatel and Aqua de Vid de Uvas Rojas. Aqua de Vid Moscatel is clear in color with a complex and clean bouquet. High intensity aromas with pleasant fruity and floral scents, orange flavors, spearmint and honey. Very smooth taste, fruity, silky, with a long and elegant finish.

Vid de Uvas Rojas is made from gently pressed grapes of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, barbera and grenache. It has fine aromas of mature fruits, dried plums, walnut and almond. Soft and fruity taste, with a wonderful finish. These two Aqua de Vid are the only grapa made commercially in Mexico and make for awesome before and after meal treats for refined or causal consumers.

Vina de Liceaga will be holding a special event on Sunday August 7th as part of the Fiestas de la Vendimia. The event begins at 1:30 p.m at their winery and includes a superb country luncheon of lamb, house wines, live music and dancing. The cost is $45. If you want to spend the day in the wine country, you have an additional option that special day after Liceaga’s event! At 6 p.m that evening a sunset concert with classical music, fine cheese, and great wines will be held at Monte Xanic Winery near the village of Francisco Zarco. Tickets for both events can be purchased from Viajes Damiana by calling (646) 178-3136. I suggest that you spend the night if you attend both events at the warm and friendly Posada Inn in Guadalupe Valley.

One problem for visiting Americans is the fact that you are allowed to take home only one liter of wine per person across the U.S. border in your vehicle. It’s a difficult situation with so many outstanding Baja wines, but Liceaga has resolved the problem without starting a revolution and should be awarded the Nobel Peace Prize. His Cellar Club allows him to ship his wines into the U.S. providing a unique opportunity to enjoy them with special benefits and discounts.